Pasteis de Nata ou Belém???

After the introduction I have decided to do my first post as a more intricate analysis of the Pastel de Belém.

Pastéis de Nata are ubiquitous in Portugal but a distinction should be made between Pastéis de Nata and Pastiés de Belém.  Translated from Portuguese Pastel de Nata means Pastry of Cream/Cream Pastry.  In Lisbon, Portugal Pastéis de Belém is a title reserved for the delectable pastries made in the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém situtated in the Santa Maria de Belém district of Lisbon, 6km from the city center.  Belém is actually derived from the Portuguese for Bethlehem and is the area from which the famous Portuguese explorers such as Vasco da Gama departed on their world-changing journeys.   Belém is a must-see district for travelers in Lisbon holding such famous landmarks ask the Tower of Belém, The National Archaeological Museum and the Jerónimos Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos). 

The Mosteiro dos Jerónimos was paramount in the creation of the Pastel de Belém.  Monasteries were the hub of Portuguese culture during this time as almost all revolved around the church.  Egg whites were actually of important commercial use during this period for things like starching clothes.  As a result there was a surplus of egg yolks, which the nuns of the monastery were charged with utilizing.  The nuns developed many sweet recipes based on egg yolks and the ultimate fruit of their labor was the Pastel de Nata. 

In the 1820’s, due to cultural and political revolution which decreased the significance of monasteries, the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos was closed down.  The destitute bakers who had guarded the secret of the Pastel de Nata were forced to sell their recipe to Domingo Rafael Alves in 1837.  Since then only a certain privileged few have known the secret ingredient.  The current owner, Pedro Clarinha, a direct descendant of Senhor Alves, has stated that only 3 people in the world know the secret recipe.  Pastries made according to this recipe are the only pastries allowed to be designated Pasteis de Belém.  Copy-cat recipes all over the world are known as Pasteis de Nata.  I have had Pastéis de Nata in over 20 different locations around the world and yes….Pasteis de Belém are unique.

While Pastéis de Belém are unique I would dare to blaspheme and put them in second place among the Pastéis de Nata I have had.  I would further blaspheme to place the best outside of Lisbon…even outside of Portugal and in Brussels, Belgium.  Far from the Grote Markt of Brussels lies the Pastelaria Garcia on the outskirts of town.  This neighborhood is marked by waving Portuguese flags, cramped buildings and questionable side streets but is my first stop I make on a trip to Brussels.  While missing the powdered sugar and cinnamon of the Pastéis de Belém these make up for it with custard with a perfect mixture of smooth vanilla, hint of tangy lemon, creamy texture and sweetness.  I normally buy them and take them across the street to enjoy with an espresso at Café Portugal.

While a perfect replica is impossible, I never imagined how easy it was to make pastéis de nata at home.   The crust is a simple dough known as massa folhada and the custard is a simple mixture of flour, milk, sugar, cinnamon, water, vanilla and egg yolks.

A prepared filo or flaky pastry is a good substitute for self made dough.

Pastéis de Belém are a cultural treasure of Portugal.  To go to Lisbon and not try them is equivalent to not going to Lisbon at all...and Lisbon is an amazing city, not to be missed on any European adventure.  2.5 hours to the north lies the city of Porto, home of Port Wine and one of the most sinister culinary amalgamations I have ever experienced....The Francesinha!!