Saturday, October 23, 2010

Intro: Belém

The bus stops you frantically try to read the sign outside since no announcement was made declaring where you are.  Praça do Comércio.  You are there only one tram away from your goal!  To your left is an astonishing view of the ocean, obscured only by a majestic statue of a man on a horse.  To your right a yellow palace-like façade with a magnificent arc in the middle that leads to colorful bustling pedestrian zone full of shops and restaurants.  Immediately you know you are not in Kansas anymore.  As soon as you begin to appreciate the delicate odor of sea-salt in the air, the #15 tram blocks your view.  Back to reality, you climb onto the crowded tram and prepare for one last journey.  The next 20 minutes are filled with stunning views of coastline and bridges to the left and aging yet quaint Mediterranean style buildings to the right.  Belém flashes in the tram and you climb out only to realize you are being followed by almost every person on the tram.  Everyone is headed in one direction but you rush to the front.  You don't even need to see the sign to know you are close to the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém because the line slightly comes out the door.  Most of the crowd has actually walked past this jewel of the Lisbon onto the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos which is where they will probably hear of this place for the first time.  Not you though...you have done your research.  

The long line moves surprisingly fast.  You are asked to move to the left to await your 2 pasteis de belém.  In the back you can see immense quantities of these lisboeta specialties and you peek hoping to catch a glimpse of their secret methods.  No luck...a young man holding up 2 fingers quickly blocks your view... you anxiously nod up and down to his inquisitive facial expression.  He coats your pasteis in cinnamon and powdered sugar and sends you on your way.  Hastily you take the first seat that comes in sight and prepare to dine.  No hesitation, no manners, no one in this world but you.  In one bite you are in a 17th century monastery surrounded by strange women in black and white.  They look like...no they are nuns...and they are enjoying the exact pastry you are.  The scene fades and you find yourself in 1837 sitting next to two men.  One is dressed as a savvy businessman and the other is in tattered dirty clothing.  That must be Domingo Rafael Alves and you must be witnessing the first and last purchase of the recipe for Pasteis de Belém from the destitute baker whose name has faded into obscurity.  You awake from your vision to be pleasantly surprised by the amazing flavor in your mouth.  The tang of the cinnamon and slight sweetness of the powdered sugar have proven to be the perfect addition to an already amazing treat.  These aren't the pasteis from Porto or Brazil...these really are special.  With centuries of history in the palm of your hand, your Portuguese adventure could end right now and have been worth it.  Or at least it was to me....


Perhaps now you can understand my love for food and culture and how to me they are always intertwined.  Dining in the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém is as culturally relevant to me as the narrow and crooked streets of Alfama or the flamboyant ramparts of Sintra.  I have traveled around Europe and experienced things from the richness of the Louvre to the humble origins of Feijoada (yes I know it's primarily Brazilian) and want to share my experience and knowledge with you.  Should you have the same fascination with food and culture, know that we are already friends and I would love nothing more than for you to share your experience and knowledge with me.

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